I used to listen to The Lost Coast – an enchanting song penned by local Philadelphia band, Grey Eye Glances, in my tiny little row house in South Philadelphia. Erie coastal images filled my head and I wondered if one day I’d get to this mythical Lost Coast – an undeveloped, remote area in Northern California that includes parts of Mendocino and Humboldt counties.
Last month, on a coastal road trip of Northern California with my husband, I found The Lost Coast. However, beyond the image in my head that morphed into reality, there were numerous stops in surrounding areas that were every bit as amazing as this forgotten, desolate wilderness. Here’s a suggested itinerary should you one day venture out in search of The Lost Coast …
If you have but only a pit stop worth of time to spend in San Francisco after you land, I suggest picking up a bite to eat at local favorite, Java Beach Café. Be sure to at least drive through the famed Golden Gate Park which is only a few blocks north and then head to Land’s End. Here, you can avoid the tourist restaurants and enjoy your Java snack – on a park bench that overlooks the rugged coast as well as the Golden Gate Bridge. If you need a little exercise after your flight, this is the place for a beautiful walk where you can also explore the Sutro Baths.
Stop to smell the flowers – and taste the local wine & beer
Although you’ll want to stay and explore more of San Francisco, the coast awaits! However, the views do not. From Land’s End you’ll go over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge into the Marin Headlands. Keep going! Soon, you’ll have to make a decision … do you visit Muir Woods or Muir Beach – or both? Because we were traveling this part of the coast on a Sunday, we avoided the Muir Woods crowds and headed to Muir Beach, as I was anxious to stick my toes in the sand and to be reunited with the Pacific Ocean. Even though I had never visited Muir Beach, it was almost like coming home, as the beach is where I’m able to ground myself. You may be different which is why it’s important to follow your heart, your mood and your spirit when on a road trip. Whatever guidebook you use probably isn’t tailored to your specific interests, personality, or, the headspace that you might be occupying in that given moment.
Just north of Muir Beach, is Stinton Beach– the Bay area’s most popular stop for summertime day trippers. Holy wow – this was a big contrast from the peaceful beauty of Muir Beach … and that’s just fine. Every beach town, every mountain town, every every-kind-of town has its own personality – keep exploring until you find the ones that fit you.
On the other side of Stinton is Point Reyes National Seashore – more than 70,000 acres of hiking, biking, beaches and forests – or, as I liked to call it, “The Big Tease.” Why “TBT?” Because it’s so unbelievably huge that you can’t make a pit stop, a quick visit or a pop in – you really have to devote an entire day to explore its wilderness. We drove by and I lamented at what I was missing until I looked forward and realized that there’s no bad place to spend time on the Northern Coast as every area has something unique to reveal.
My husband, Chris, at The Birds Cafe
If your snack from Java is beginning to wear off, Point Reyes Station is the perfect spot to stop and recharge. The Station House Café features local oysters as well as a nice selection of local wine, plus, the town is absolutely charming and worth a stroll down the main street.
After your meal, don’t get too sleepy as something really special lies just ahead – especially if you’re an Alfred Hitchcock fan – the tiny hamlet of Bodega and it’s seaside neighbor, Bodega Bay. In 1963, Hitchcock used the Victorian-era hilltop church in Bodega for many of the scariest scenes in the classic film, The Birds. Not into horror film history? No problem. Stop in Bodega Landmark Studio for an amazing taste of local art, and, for a chat with owner, Lorenzo De Santis who has enough stories to keep you entertained well past closing time. When you’re ready for another taste of local flavor, visit Bodega Bay’s The Birds Café and take in the fabulous patio views while enjoying a clam chowder and local beer before checking into the Bodega Harbor Inn to rest up before exploring the Sonoma Coast – the most dangerous coastal area in California.
Danger lurks at Somoma Coast State Park
If it’s danger you seek, start at the southern end of Sonoma Coast State Park at Bodega Head for winds so strong, they’ll knock you over if your feet aren’t planted. Continue up Route 1 for ten miles enjoying the rocky coast while taking note of the “Caution” signs in the park that remind people about “sleeper” waves that have been known to knock people off the rocks and into the ocean. Not one for these kinds of surprises, I suggested we continue on and I did my best to enjoy this part of the drive, as the road gets very windy and narrow. (Remember your Dramamine if you’re like me and are prone to motion sickness.) Finally the road calms down and signs for Point Arena appear.
Five miles northwest of Route 1 sits Point Arena Lighthouse which has protected the Mendocino coast since 1870. Even more fun than the lighthouse is the noise you’ll hear coming from the water — sea lions sunning themselves and acting like they are your lighthouse tour guides.
While you may be in awe of the coastal scenery, don’t forget to take note of the tiny towns that straddle Route 1. Elk (population: 208) is so small you’ll miss it if you happen to be routing around in your daypack for a snack as you drive into it. Keep an eye open – it’s worth taking some photos.
Heaven on earth: Mendocino
Finally, you’ll arrive at Van Damme State Park – home of the Pygmy Forest – and this is where I get really excited as the town of Mendocino lies only a few minutes away. I discovered Mendocino last summer on a break from Camp Grounded – where I was a counselor. It was like walking into a different era. The entire village has historical designation, which only enhances the views of wildflowers, cliffs, sea caves and some of the most amazing sunsets you can imagine. Arriving in Mendocino was like being reunited with an old friend – one that I wanted to introduce to my husband so he too could enjoy the relationship. As I got reacquainted with the village and its cottages, shops and coastlines, I wondered how the Lost Coast could possibly be better than this.
Use airbnb to find a cottage in Mendocino as you’ll want to stay at least two nights – maybe more if you want to also enjoy the hiking trails in the forest just east of the highway. And that’s the beauty of Mendocino – it has everything … views, outdoor activities, ocean, forest, shopping, dining, an art scene. It may be small, but it’s filled with beauty – inside and out.
Ten miles north of Mendocino is the rough and tumble, Ft. Bragg. However, don’t scoot along too fast on this stretch or you’ll miss the Sea Glass Museum before you enter town. Here, you can admire – and purchase – sea glass which is prevalent on this part of the coast. In fact, you can pick up lunch at Harvest Market and then head to Glass Beach where you may or may not get lucky with your own sea glass hunt …
Keep your eye out for Part 2 … Lost Coast: Found.
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