In Search of The Lost Coast: Part 2

Click here for Part 1 (San Francisco to Ft. Bragg).

… As you head north from Glass Beach, leaving Ft. Bragg behind, the road continues to hug the coast through the fishing town of Westport. However, Highway 1 then becomes narrow and twists up over coastal mountains until you no longer have a hint that the Pacific Ocean is your neighbor. Finally, Highway 1 intersects US 101 and the town of Leggett — suddenly the southern end of the Humboldt redwoods is ready to greet you. To ease my husband into the transition from sweeping coastal imagery to the campy vibe that’s about to assault our senses, I suggest we stop in the southern end of town at The Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree, which happens to be the area’s most loved roadside attraction. Here, you can literally drive your car through a 315-foot redwood tree that’s still growing despite the big hole in it.

Once you’ve experienced your first roadside attraction, you’re ready for the deep dive — the drive through the “Avenue of the Giants.” The 30 miles that parallels US 101 displays the natural majesty of the giant Redwoods as well as man’s take on it via tacky, but, fun tourist curiosities such as Confusion Hill and souvenir stands highlighting the mystery of Big Foot. Much of the tackiness exists only on vintage postcards in remembrance of old time road trips. However, the trees are as they were when dinosaurs roamed. It’s a wonderful place to take walk, meditate and listen to the sound of the wind in the “Giants” while thinking about how small a place each of us occupies in the universe. If the kitsch seems like it’s in direct violation of the natural beauty, perhaps drive north enjoying Bigfoot and friends, then, once that’s out of your system, drive south slowly stopping in the tree groves along the way. The Avenue of the Giants is a bit of a paradox – one that’s been enjoyed for generations, so do embrace it … and keep your eye out for Big Foot.

Once you’ve completed the round trip, enjoy a meal, a stroll down the main street and a chat with the local hippies in Garberville. If you haven’t broken the piggy bank on Big Foot trinkets, stop in the 37-year old Blue Moon Gift Shop, or, as I call it – The Fun Shop. It’s everything that you don’t need, but you’ll make someone’s day with whatever you pick up here. Last year, I bought a lonely red hat that was in the very back corner of the shop – it’s now named Happy Hat and has fans all over the world. You never know what magic will bloom after a trip to Blue Moon. Garberville is also a great place to stock up on groceries and anything else you may need as the road that links Garberville to The Lost Coast is very light on amenities.

It’s only 25 miles from Garberville to Shelter Cove, the secluded beach community that sits in the middle of The Lost Coast. But, it’s 25 windy, narrow miles with hairpin turns and not much between you and the edge of the cliff. I’ll mention the reminder I included in Part 1 – if, like me, you are prone to motion sickness, do remember take a Dramamine when leaving Garberville. An hour – give or take – after leaving civilization, the trees will clear and you’ll be looking out onto Shelter Cove.

Here, the Grey Eye Glances song about the view I’m taking in begins to run in a loop inside my head. And, to be honest, I wanted something dramatic to happen upon arrival – not a parade exactly, but more than just a note from our innkeeper letting us know we could help ourselves into our room. And then I spot it – or, more accurately, I hear it. It’s the sound of sea lions celebrating another good day of sunbathing. And unlike the sea lions that greeted us at Point Arena Lighthouse, these aren’t on rocks at the bottom of a tall cliff. These are only on the other side of a shallow wall that separates the beach from our inn. We follow the wall to the lighthouse and spot steps that take us down to the rocky beach and to the sea lions who are oblivious that sharing this secluded beach with them is worth the stomach churning drive and 15 years of fantasizing about The Lost Coast and its inhabitants.

Towns worth exploring north of The Lost Coast:

Ferndale – The Victorian jewel of Ferndale is worth the 10-mile round-trip detour from Route 101. Stroll the Main Street that is completely free of homogenized America and visit the old time general store, the Golden Gait Mercantile which will take you on an old time shopping adventure.

Loleta – Not much happens in Loleta except for one amazing thing … some of the best cheese in the world is made at the Loleta Cheese Factory. If, like me, you are a cheese addict, then stop here and be ready to weep. The tasting alone is magnificent.

Eureka – Old Town Eureka has a few of my favorite things – lovely architecture, shops featuring local artists and restaurants filled with local beer, local ice cream and the local catch of the day. You can’t help but to go local in the old part of the city. Go even more local with a ride on the Madaket, which has been on the Humboldt Bay since 1910. Take a narrated or eco cruise, or enjoy a cocktail cruise for bragging rights. The Madaket operates the smallest licensed bar in the state of California.

Arcata – If you are lucky enough to time your trip so it coincides with the college town’s Arcata Bay Oyster Festival – do it. I liked oysters before the festival. Now, I love them – like really love them. If not, head to Arcata Main Street and Plaza as something fun is always going on – plus, the plaza is surrounded by good eats and local shops.

Trinidad – This tiny seaside gem wasn’t in the guidebook and maybe it shouldn’t be because then more people would know about it. With only 360 residents, Trinidad is one of the oldest and smallest towns in the state. It also offers some of the most impressive views along the northern coast. Don’t miss it just because the guidebooks do!

Upcoming Events:

DAY RETREAT: Recess for Grown-Ups
Experience a hybrid of summer camp, a weekend retreat and a mini vacation.
Saturday, August 1^st, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Loretto Center (Littleton, CO)

PLAYSHOP: Get Out of Your Head and into Your Life: Improv for Everybody!
Check your inhibitions at the door and discover how to feel more confident – and more fun – in your everyday life.
Thursday, August 6^th, 6 – 9 p.m.
Colorado Free University (Denver, CO)

SHOW: 3 Blind Dates
Denver’s only unscripted romantic comedy, and, YOU get to choose the couples!
Saturday, August 8^th, 7 p.m.
Voodoo Comedy Playhouse (Denver, CO)

WEEKEND RETREAT: Playing for Love Mountain Retreat
Experience a playshop and digital detox weekend for those seeking authenticity in their dating experiences and relationships.
Friday, August 21^st, 5 p.m. – Monday, August 24^th, 10 a.m.
Highlands Presbyterian Camp & Retreat Center (Allenspark, CO)

PLAYSHOP: Laughter Yoga
Enjoy a mind-body combination of laughter exercises, deep breathing and relaxation techniques to enhance your health — and happiness.
Monday, August 31^st, 8 – 9 p.m.
Voodoo Comedy Playhouse (Denver, CO)