In Search of the Quintessential American Beach Town on the Oregon Coast

There are two kinds of coasts in Oregon – the southern one that’s wild, remote and hours away from Portland, and the northern one that only feels remote but is easily a day trip from the city. Last month I had the opportunity to visit the sliver of the northern coastline that had never made it into my former itineraries: Pacific City to Cannon Beach. As part of this road trip, I wanted to decide for myself whether the old-fashioned seaside town of Manzanita was in fact an American beach town worthy of the praise bestowed on it by National Geographic Traveler.

But first, where to stay, as my husband and I would be visiting over the 4^th of July weekend, which brings hoards of city slickers to the coast. After finding the perfect – available – cottage nowhere but in Rockaway Beach, we thought that would be a good choice for our home base as it’s in the center of the coastal area we’d be exploring, and, it’s known for its 4^th of July festivities including a parade and a fireworks display. To be honest, the town of Rockaway Beach isn’t the most scenic, it’s not the most active, and it doesn’t have, well … much to boast about with the exception of the Sand Dollar Restaurant that showcases amazing seafood and ocean views as well as the Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad which makes daily trips between Rockaway and Garibaldi in the summertime. But, the beaches are huge and the central location means you can easily explore a different area every day of your visit.

To the South:

Three Capes Scenic Loop is the perfect day trip from Rockaway Beach. Actually, there’s enough to keep you occupied to make it into an entire overnight side trip – especially since it doesn’t even begin until about 15 miles south of Rockaway in Tillamook. And, if you’re a cheese lover like me, you’ll want to stop at Oregon’s most popular attraction – Tillamook Cheese Factory. Here, you can enjoy daily tours and tastings.

If you continue south from Tillamook – along the 101 – you’ll enjoy rural farmlands and almost forget that the coast lies just a few miles west. If you want to actually get out of the car and have your feet touch the ground, do it seven miles south of Tillamook at Munson Creek Falls – the highest waterfall in Oregon’s Coastal Range. However, don’t get too sidetracked as the coast is calling. Soon, you’ll see signs for Pacific City, which is the southernmost town on the loop. This is where your coastal adventure begins! Here, you can stop for lunch and a beer tasting at Pelican Pub and Brewery – the only brewery in Oregon that’s literally right on the beach.

Once you’ve refueled, you can see the other sights in Pacific City before heading north. We particularly enjoyed Bob Straub State Park at the southern end of town because even though it was the busiest weekend of the year, there was plenty of open space and nothing blocking the sweeping views. Most everyone else will be checking out the wild surf at Cape Kiwanda, or, photographing the Haystack Rock that lies a half-mile offshore. You’ll be surprised at how easily it is to lose track of time in Pacific City.

As you head north from Pacific City, you can stop to play in the Sand Dollar Recreation area or Cape Lookout State Park. We, however, headed directly to Netarts because we enjoyed Pacific City a little too much and suddenly it was almost evening. We opted to have an early dinner at The Schooner on Netarts Bay, which serves fantastic local, seasonal seafood.

Just north of Netarts is the coastal village of Oceanside which has dramatic ocean as well as land views as the entire town is tucked into the cliffs that hang over the beach. It’s easy to think the coastal drive is complete after exploring the beach in Oceanside, however Cape Meares is only a stone’s throw away. Here, you’ll be greeted by a restored, 125 year-old lighthouse and an oddly contorted tree appropriately named, The Octopus Tree.

To the North:

If you love antique markets, you will never be able to get enough of the quaint and picturesque village of Wheeler. We had to abruptly walk out of the shops for fear of shipping home lots of things we don’t need – but so wanted. In fact, there are probably more items on display in the markets than there are people living in Wheeler.

Continuing the picturesque theme is Nehalem which lies along the river and bay, but not the ocean which means it’s easy to bypass as the often anticipated Manzanita is just ahead. And here’s where it gets tough because the area between Manzanita and Canon Beach is some of the most breathtaking coastline is the state.

And, National Geographic Traveler was right – although Manzanita is an upscale, coastal resort town, it’s also a tiny village where time has stood still. If it weren’t for the cars parked along its main street, you might think Manzanita jumped out of a different era where kids ride bikes, eat ice cream cones and fly kites all summer long. Because of this, I was hooked, so I walked the entire length of its beach and visited every local shop – including the one featuring local ice cream. It’s a place where the main activity is slowing down, and everyone likes it that way.

Just north is Oswald State Park named after Oregon’s 14^th governor, Oswald West. Because of him, Oregon’s entire coast is protected for public use making the Oregon Coast a top summertime road trip destination. In this four miles of coastline, you can pull over and take classic coastal photographs. But, what makes it even more special is the half-mile walk to the beach that sends you under the 101 and through the forest from the parking lot to Short Sand Beach. And, yes, a gorgeous view waits for you here, too.

Finally, up the 101, before Route 26, which leads back to Portland, is Cannon Beach. If any of the towns previously mentioned are just a little too sleepy, Cannon Beach is your place. Art? Check. Outdoor pursuits? Check. Shopping and restaurants? Check. Although you can’t actually see Cannon Beach from the 101, you won’t want to miss it, as it’s the artist colony of the Northern Coast. And although Cape Kiwanda’s Haystack Rock is bigger, the one in Cannon Beach is photographed more often, so you’ve probably come across a photo of its shoreline. While there is no end to the activities available in Cannon Beach, my favorite is lunch at Ecola Seafoods – a market and restaurant that serves the local catch of the day.

*****

It took 20 years, but I’ve finally driven the entire Oregon Coast. While my memory is a bit fuzzy about points south, I can definitively name Manzanita as my favorite town along the Northern Coast. It’s small and cozy which means you won’t be running up and down Main Street every day hitting different bars and restaurants and shops leaving lots of time to relax and enjoy the views. And, it’s pretty enough that you’ll never tire of sitting quietly and watching the surf roll in next to the rocky coastline. But, remember, it’s your adventure so find the town that suits your personality regardless of whatever travel writer – including me – might suggest. Find your own adventure!

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